http://www.westword.com/restaurants/concourse-restaurant-moderne-makes-magic-in-denvers-stapleton-neighborhood-9863738
The coldness is shocking, airy and gently sweet, like a kiss stolen when no one’s looking. One minute you’re spooning into a cup of celery root soup, and the next your brain is playing catch-up, trying to match what you thought was happening (soup) with the sensations shimmying in your brain (magic).
Could you have seen it coming? There was that reference to apple-maple foam on the menu. The trompe l’oeil presentation in a latte mug. The shimmer of white effervescence. But nothing could have readied you for the soup’s wondrous physicality, with a cashmere creaminess that softens the root’s edge and those cold, tiny bubbles — a play on cappuccino foam — that melt on your tongue like snowflakes. Such contrasts make you wonder: Did that really just happen?
